Thursday, September 10, 2009

Nearing the end of the trip

Just one more full day here, and then we leave for the airport and the long trip home on Saturday! It’s been a very informative and productive trip, but I’m ready to return. The last few days have been easy – just interviews and paperwork in the main office. It is a bit confining though. It isn’t safe for us to wander the city on our own, so we go from hotel to office and back by work shuttle. You don’t see much of the city that way. There are also few restaurants, so all meals are taken in the hotel. I could now work here. I have memorized the menu, and know the entire process from start to finish for the waiters. The only thing I can’t figure out is why fettucine has green peppers in it. Maybe that’s the last question on the test before you are hired.

Tomorrow is the big exit presentation to the office, then back to the hotel to pack the suitcase, and get ready to depart on Saturday morning. We go from here, to Miami, to Chicago, and finally to Seattle. That was the “best we could do” according to our travel group. Seems like a lot of take-offs and landings, but I guess as long as take-offs and landings are equal, I’m OK with it.

As always, thank you for letting me share a bit about my adventures with you. Writing helps me remember as well months or years later!

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

This morning we awoke to the sounds of farm animals in the lot behind the hotel. The day starts early on the island of La Gonave! After a wonderful breakfast, it was back to the boat, and the ride back to the mainland. There was quite the storm last night, and there was still quite a bit of wave action this morning. While I’m quite certain we were safe the whole time, there were a few times we seemed to get quite a bit of lift over the water, or seemed to tilt quite far to the left or right. In any event, it was a safe journey on the water. Probably safer than the truck ride from the boat back to the office in Port-au-Prince. I’ve been several places, and usually the organizations drivers are not the most aggressive on the road. The gentleman today was certainly not typical!

Otherwise, just a day of interviews, process reviews, and note taking. Boy doesn’t that sound like fun! So today, I’ll include a bit of general information.

In the city, water is delivered to homes in trucks. Picture the type of trucks that bring oil to homes in the US. The water is delivered from the truck to a cistern under the floor in the home, where it is then used for washing, bathing, etc. And here’s the funny part…. The water delivery vehicles play songs, just like the ice cream truck in the US. The “theme song” for the trucks is the theme song for the movie Titanic. Now I don’t know if anyone else finds this amusing, but I really get a kick out of it!
Greetings from La Gonave! La Gonave is an island off the coast of Haiti. We left the hotel at about 7:00 and experienced Port-au-Prince rush hour. People were everywhere, going ever direction on the roads. Police officers, UN troops, and other security forces were at most of the intersections directing traffic. I’m not sure if it was helping, but all those official people probably prevent something really bad from happening!

We finally got to the boat after about 2 hours of driving. As I know nothing about boats, I can’t tell you what kind, other than it was a motor boat. I ended up sitting in the front, which gets a little damp in the middle of the voyage. The waves between the coast of Haiti and the island are pretty good size. I don’t really remember the number of times I came out of my seat as we crested one wave and then crashed down, with the spray going over the front of the boat. Quite an experience.

The views from the water are beautiful, both of Haiti and of La Gonave. The water though is not as pretty. From the shore, it looks beautiful, but when you’re in the middle of it, you see all the trash and garbage that people have thrown into the water, or that has washed down from the hillsides. Cups, plates, Styrofoam containers, bottles, just about everything you can imagine if floating out there.

After arrival, we drove for over an hour over some very bumpy roads to the middle of the island. I’m not sure how many miles, but I’m guessing it was less than 15. The ride was so rough, I actually have bruises on the backs of my legs from being bounced around on the seat! There we saw a medical clinic first. The clinics on the island are staffed by intern doctors. These are people that have just graduated or are about to graduate from medical school. They serve a one year assignment here. At this point, they can’t get anyone else to serve here because it is so remote. Folks here suffer mainly from all the ailments related to unclean drinking water, plus respiratory infections, and malaria.

From there we went to a food distribution. There are several programs on the island run by aid groups to bring supplemental food (beans, corn-soybean blend, cooking oil, etc.) to families here. It is good to see, and seems to be making a big difference in malnutrition rates on the island. Then back down the bumpy road to the office to do other inventory management / supply chain work. I’m sure you would all find that incredibly exciting, but I’ll refrain from sharing all that stuff.

Now we’ve finished a wonderful dinner of cold vegetables, rice, chicken, plaintains, and fried okra, and back to the room to finish work and go to bed. While this hotel isn’t much to look at from the outside, the room has an air conditioner and a fan (bonus!), no bugs that I’ve found yet, and seems very clean. I’m not sure how much longer the A/C and fan will work though, as a storm is coming in, and the wind is picking up dramatically. Hope it’s not a really serious one, as we are right on the coast.

Tomorrow morning, back on the boat to Port-au-Prince, and then office work for the rest of our visit. While it’s very interesting to visit the more remote sites, sometimes, it’s nice to just be in one place for a few days in a row.
We’ve had a nice weekend. Today, we went to church service. The service is very international. In our group alone, we had people from the US, Canada, Kenya, Zambia, and Ghana. The church is probably about 50% locals, and the rest made up from people around the world serving in Haiti for the UN, missionaries, churches, pilots, and other groups. There is also a large population of orphans that attend this church. As we understand the story, a couple came to the Haiti several years ago, and ended up running an orphanage for street kids. I don’t have the full story, but the end result is the street kids were scooped up, placed in this orphanage, given schooling and medical care. Many have been adopted by Haitians and other countries. Currently, they have about 120 kids in the orphanage. They load them up in the back of a box truck, with windows and the back changed to bars. The drive isn’t far, and while the situation isn’t ideal, it seems to work for the kids and for the workers.

After church, we went to a “fast food” place for lunch. They did have food, but I’m uncertain where the “fast” part comes from. Anyway, one of the things they serve is crepes. I decided to have that, but was thinking fruit. Here, they make it with ham, cheese, and onions. Not exactly what I was expecting, but it was OK.

The last two days, we’ve spent time with our host’s family. They have two daughters living with them here, one is 12 and the other is 6. The older one has lived in Haiti before, and also in Africa. I’m amazed at how well both of them adapt to everything around them. If I had been brought to Haiti or DRC to live when I was that age, I don’t think I would have handled it very well. They seem to take everything in stride, and seem to really be enjoying themselves.

A few other general observations about our time here. We’ve noticed there are many soldiers and law enforcement officers here. There is obviously the local police, plus the United Nations soldiers. There are a few other groups too with different patches. At first, I thought they were part of the UN force, but I’m not sure. This morning leaving the hotel, I counted 12 soldiers with 4 different types of uniforms, all with machine guns sitting on the wall across from the hotel. Can’t decide if I’m in the safest, or most dangerous place in town! Guess it depends on how long all those folks with the guns get along.

Transit here is also interesting. There are some busses, generally school buses or 15 passenger vans. However, the primary public transit is pickup trucks. The drivers put awnings (brightly decorated) over the back of them and benches, and then cram as many people as possible into the truck. When they run out of room, people hang from the back or ride on the top with the luggage, chickens, bananas, and other items. I tried to count the number of people in one of them today, and came up with 20. Can you picture that in the back of a small Nissan pickup truck (think early 1990’s mini-pickup, not full-size). They also have the same thing in larger deliver trucks. Picture a U-haul truck with no sides, seats, and an awning over the top. I counted at least 40 in one of those today. Needless to say, if you combine this with the way folks drive here and the condition of the roads, injuries from auto accidents is a big issue. The vehicles are also multi-purpose. Today we passed a pickup truck with the word “Ambulance” painted on the tailgate. When we pulled up along side it, the doors were painted with an advertisement for a furniture delivery service.

Overall, a great weekend, and looking forward to the boat ride to La Gonave tomorrow.

Saturday, September 5, 2009

Visit to Hinche, Haiti

We arrived in Haiti on the 2nd, but this is the first time I’ve had a chance to write down any notes. What an interesting place! Just driving from the airport to the hotel and office on the first day was an experience. I’ve been several places where riding in a vehicle can be very exciting, but Haiti may take the prize. Streets are narrow in most places, barely two lanes wide. Those streets are shared by cars going both directions, motor bikes, people walking, ox drawn carts, donkeys, horses, and bicycles. You’d be amazed how many lanes you can put on a two lane road. There are no road markings, even at intersections. No stop signs; no yield signs. Basically, everyone moves into the intersection at once, and the most aggressive come out the other side first. Turn signal not required. In fact, turn signals, tail lights, and headlights appear to be optional. Now your horn on the other hand….. I think they may actually ticket you if that doesn’t work!

Our second day here, we took a small, 6 seat plan (including pilot) to an area called Hinche. This is in the Central Plateau area of Haiti. Flying over the country gives you a great appreciation for just how beautiful this country is. The scenery goes from the beach, to hills, to mountains, to this very large flat area north of Port-au-Prince. You also get an appreciation for the problems of Haiti. Years ago, the island was de-forested. From what I understand, many of the trees were cut down to provide building materials and fuel. Later, a commercial logging company came and removed the remaining commercially viable trees. Many years have now passed, and you’d think some organization would simply come in and replant. Unfortunately, too many years have gone by, and with nothing to hold the soil on the rocky slopes, all the top soil has washed away into the ocean. As you fly over, while it is green from grass and brush, you also see the soil is incredibly rocky. This is part of the reason why any tropical storm or hurricane is so devastating to the island.

Airstrips in remote parts of Haiti are a bit different than we’re used to. The landing strip in Hinche was a gravel and dirt path just off of the center of town. When not receiving planes, it’s used as a bicycle path, meeting point, and grazing area for the local animals. Air traffic control is a guy on the cell phone talking to someone back in Port-au-Prince to let them know the plane has arrived. There are two guys on bicycles that ride up the runway as the plane circles yelling at everyone to get off the strip. Apparently this works well sometimes, and not so good others. The good news is the pilots are very good at missing all wildlife and people remaining on the air strip. Even the dog that ran in front of the plane at the last minute (and the child that ran after it trying to catch it) survived just fine.

The first thing you notice about Hinche is that everyone has somewhere to go. I don’t know where they are all going, but it seems like the whole town is on the move. You generally don’t see people just sitting around. Everyone is either on the way to the well, on the way to the river to wash clothes or bathe, on the way to town to trade / sell items, or back after having done so. We saw several people with motor bikes, and many had donkeys or horses. While folks here clearly are below the poverty line, people obviously care about trying to make the most of what they have.

The hotel we stayed in was called the L’ermitage de Pandiassou, and is actually just a little outside of Hinche. This is a beautiful location, with very nice, beautiful buildings. It looks completely out of place compared to the rest of the city. The hotel is set back quite a bit from the road, and is totally quite. Electricity is provided by generator, and amazingly it has hot running water. We met the owner on Friday evening. He is a doctor in Port-au-Prince, and purchased the property in Pandiassou a little over two years ago. He and his wife thought it would be interesting to run a hotel. They built one building as the family home, and then decided to turn it into a restaurant for the hotel. While the setting is amazing, it was a bit disconcerting to share your room (and bed) with some very interesting bugs. The fans were helpful, but when the generator cuts out, it gets awfully hot in the rooms.

We also realized that speaking French would be real helpful when in remote areas, and neither of us speak a word. When we checked in, we were told we had to order dinner then (this is at 9am). We did so, but then we couldn’t get anyone to bring it to us. We finally got it figured out, but they decided only one of us ordered, so we split one meal between us. The next morning, no breakfast, because it turns out, you have to order that at dinner the night before. We got smart then, and ordered dinner, but somehow, they misplaced the order. It’s a good thing they figured that out while we were talking with the owner, or we would not have been given dinner that night either. On one hand, that’s good for the weight loss plan. On the other, you can only skip so many meals (or replace with granola bars) before you start to get a little light headed!

Overall, a great trip to Hinche, then back on the little airplane for the return to Port-au-Prince this morning. This afternoon, our hosts took us up to an area just outside of Port-au-Prince and we visited the Baptist Mission. I’m trying to translate the brochure we received, but in general, a couple from the US come here in 1943 and started this mission, providing education, medical support, and practical training to people in this area. To get to this mission, you drive basically straight up into the mountains. The roads are incredibly narrow, and built right into the side of the mountain. There is no margin for error when driving on this road, as there is no real wall between you and a straight down drop in some areas. People here build their cement homes right into the side of the cliff. I would hate to have to walk up to the main road from some of these places. Yet they do it, and are able to do it carrying heavy loads. Even the children.

Tonight, back at the Hotel Karibe. It’s great to visit the field, but I have to admit, air conditioning is really nice. I also like the fact I have no small, creeping visitors sharing the room with me. Well, there is the small lizard I saw run out of the closet and under the bed, but he seems content to sleep on the floor, so he can stay.
More tomorrow!

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Still in the northern part of the country today. We had a chance to drive a bit further into the mountains. It is a beautiful place! At one point, our hosts pulled over, and we walked up a short hill to a beautiful view. The view was amazing. Green as far as you can see, just one mountain after another. You can also appreciate how difficult it is to travel here off the main roads. The mountains are not tall, but are very rocky and steep. During our day, we took a dirt road over several of these mountains, and there were several times we were certain we’d need to get out and walk the rest of the way. In fact, we expected to, as our hosts told us the road is usually not drivable after about the ½ way point. We were all surprised when we were able to drive all the way to our destination. If it had rained at all this week, we would not have been able to! We had asked if we could go to another site, but found out the only way to get there was a 2 to 4 hour burro ride. Less if you could ride the whole way, more if you had to walk large parts of it. Unfortunately, time didn’t allow us to go, but my wouldn’t that have made for an interesting day!

We learned a lot about the health programs here. We’ve met several doctors on this trip, and I’m amazed at how young they all are. In Nicaragua, after a doctor completes medical school, they have to do 2 years of “social service”. Basically, each is assigned through lottery to the various rural and urban health clinics throughout the country. They then work there for 2 years, and are then allowed to move onto a specialty, private practice, or another government health job. The doctors we met were in their mid to late twenties, and all are living basically by themselves in some very remote outposts. The good news is their facilities are reasonably equipped, but they still have much to deal with. The one we visited today only recently had a latrine built on the property, and still does not have access to clean water. The doctor must bring the water in from the next nearest town.

We also had the opportunity to visit a school within the community where they do many arts programs. Singing, dancing, drama, and painting are just some of the areas taught at this school. The kids put on a great performance for us, showing off their skills. We also each received a canvas painting done by some of the older kids in the drawing program. The paintings are amazing!

A few other interesting things from this evening. The town is having a Star Trek convention this weekend. Gotta love that! I also learned that sherbet can be made out of about every type of fruit there is. Our hosts took us to an ice cream store that hand makes sherbet from many of the different types of fruit grown here. Can you believe there were 20 different types to choose from? I chose watermelon, and it even had seeds in it.
Tomorrow we will work again in the area around this small town, and then back to Managua for our last full day here.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Visits to hospitals

We spent all day yesterday in the office learning about processes and procedures. The team here is doing a wonderful job, and we learned a lot. Today, we drove about 2 hours to Esteli. The drive here was beautiful. Everything is very green. As you drive north out of Managua, you enter the mountains. Just like Managua, everything here is very green, with many fruit trees. I don’t think I’ve ever seen this many mango trees!

We spent most of our day with the staff at a district hospital. They shared a lot with us about how they use products we send, and about other places where items come from. I can’t compare this to other hospitals in Central American Countries, but compared to those I’ve seen in Africa, this hospital is much larger, and much better supplied. That said, it is still nothing like hospitals in the US. They can still do only basic surgeries, and treat basic illnesses. The team here is very dedicated and very interested in helping the people in this community.

We also learned a lot about illnesses in this region. While children here are not malnourished, there are still many who are undernourished. From what I understood, things are getting better all the time, but they still have a ways to go. We did learn about several wonderful nutrition programs that are helping to address this issue.

And now for a little fun. We went to a Cuban restaurant for dinner. Much different from Nicaraguan food. Then back to the hotel. The hotel is very basic, and I’m very glad that the temperature outside is cooling down a bit. The small fan in the room wasn’t helping much earlier. Now, I’m entertained by a 12 inch TV (but it gets something like 100 channels), and the bugs crawling on the wall. They look harmless enough, so all is well. The hotel is inexpensive ($13), and you get everything you pay for, and not one thing more……
Tomorrow we will spend some time working with one of the communities, so that should be fun to talk with people and learn how we can assist them better. More then….

Sunday, July 12, 2009

Sightseeing in Managua

We arrived safely last night in Managua. Today, we had time to do a little sightseeing before beginning work tomorrow. It’s winter here in Nicaragua, so the temperature was only in the upper 80’s today. It wasn’t hot though as there was a wonderful breeze blowing constantly!

Our host took us several places today. First we went to Tiscapa Lagoon, which includes a small museum and memorial to Augusto Sandino. He was a revolutionary in the 1930’s, and is much celebrated here. We saw many references to him around Managua. This area has several volcanoes, so the lagoons are actually the craters of old volcanoes.

We also drove around old Managua. In 1972, there was a major earthquake here that completely destroyed the city. When they rebuilt, they did not build on the original city, but instead on surrounding area. The old city is still there, but people have moved into the old buildings, most of which look like they are about to fall down. One building that is still mostly standing is the old cathedral. This was a beautiful cathedral, but was never rebuilt. You can still see the huge cracks in the walls from the earthquake. Looks like large pieces fall off regularly, as the building is roped off, and we saw large pieces of concrete even outside the roped off areas.

Our host took us to Masaya for lunch. This is a beautiful area south of Managua. The city sits on a hill overlooking another lagoon. Beyond the lagoon, you can see Lake Managua. While they call it a hill or a mountain, what you are really sitting on is the rim of the volcano crater, overlooking the lake that now fills the crater. For those of you in Washington, it actually looks a lot like the Crater Lake area, but without the evergreen trees. We’re told that people swim here all the time, but it seemed a bit cold today to do so.

Tonight for dinner, we walked to a restaurant not far from the hotel. Dinner was wonderful, but I think the waiter may have misunderstood part of the order. We tried to order something we translated as a “sample platter”, but apparently, the 20 words of Spanish we collectively speak led us a bit astray. We’re not completely sure what we had, but did eventually figure out that at least part of the plate included beef heart. We are hoping that was all that was on there. It tasted fine, but we are thinking maybe we should ask a few more questions next time.
Tomorrow is mostly at the local office, working with the team here to understand how we can organize and ship products to them so that they can be more effective and efficient in what they do. This trip will focus on health related items, so lots of time in rural clinics and hospitals. I’m quite certain I’ll learn more than I actually teach!